Geraniols used in perfumery to extend the scent of roses, bringing sheer, floral freshness to blends. Theyre then steam-distilled to produce a gloopy, oily yellow compound, known in the business as iris butter. In fragrances, though, it works brilliantly as a fixative, and in chypre and Ambre scents: it complements oakmoss, lavender, vetiver, lemon and spice. Elizabeth Arden Fifth Avenue Chanel Coco Burberry The Beat Violets were Napoleons favourite flowers. Chanel Les Exclusifs 28 La Paula Sometimes, alternatively, the scent of the blossom of the apricot tree (a.k.a. Frederic MalleNoir Epices. Gucci Flora by Gucci Gorgeous Gardenia And its sticky, which is how the powdered root came to be used in candy-making. Guerlain Champs Elyses Mostly, pomelos are grown in South and South-east Asia: pale green to yellow when ripe and juicy, with flesh that doesnt have grapefruits bitter edge. Methylene chloride is often found in fragrances and is one of the most common beauty product ingredients. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Matin Tangy or sweet, juicy or tart: more sophisticated than a strawberry, but just as lush. Le Labo Labdanum 18 ", Illolahia adds that, due to the cost and supply, "natural oud oil is used sparingly in Anglo perfumes and is generally reserved for niche or luxury fragrances. Herms Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan Some noses played around with ingredients like patchouli, or synthetic imitations of oakmoss to try to achieve some of the same effects as this wonder of the natural scent world, but theres no question that some favourite fragrances started not to smell like themselves. But Illolahia adds that musk "is rarely used today because musk deer are endangered," and that chemists have been refining synthetic alternatives since the late 19thcentury. By Kilian Royal Leather Since gourmand fragrances took off, bananas been used more widely: the sweetness of the juicy fruit note gives a good-enough-to-eat quality. Histoire de Parfums Vert Pivoine And depending on its ripeness, it can give hints of chocolate, or ripe fruit. As a flower, orange blossom has long played a role in weddings: maidens have carried it in bouquets and woven it into bridal headdresses since the time of the Crusaders, when trees were brought from the East to Europe, and began to flourish here. Fragonard Mimosa Guerlain Samsara Burberry Brit Amouroud Silk Route (We also list this ingredient under E, for Everlasting Flower) All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe; its yellow flowers stay incredibly bright, even after theyve been dried. The essential oil itself is distilled from the pine needles, young shoots and even sometimes the cones of this familiar evergreen, producing an oil with a refreshing woody-spiciness that conjures up Christmas like nothing else. Perfume Bottles Auction 2023: The worlds most fabulous flaons could be yours! Crabtree & Evelyn Nadiora "Vetiver is proof that upcycling can give amazing products," says perfumer Claire Liegent. A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation. The plant itself is found in Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, areas of the US like Florida, and Australia. Galbanum essential oil is quite different to the gum: intensely green, slightly bitter, earthy. The absolute created from the nut itself is sweet, but with a bitter edge (think Amaretto, here); almond can give a fragrance a marzipan quality, maybe even remind you of macaroons. (Its also used in vermouth.) (And conservationists.) Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Burberry Sport for Women (Though we do also invite you to improve your sense of smell through one of our nationwide workshops for subscribers click here for details. As a perfume ingredient, cannabis has been in the news recently as a controversial ingredient in actor Richard E. Grants debut scent. Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose Jasmin Sambac is one of the grande dames of perfumery. Parle Moi de Parfum Totally White If any single ingredient can create those effects, its musk. The types mainly grown for fragrance are Lavandula angustifolia (or Lavandula officinalis), Lavandula latifolia, or the more camphor-y Lavandula stoechas, which smells more like rosemary. The sacred herb;, the Romans called it and pretty sacred sage is, too, to perfumers. A bushy shrub originally from Malaysia and India. Goutal Eau du Sud The name comes from the Latin, so were told: lavere means to wash, and the Romans perfumed their baths with lavender oil. Indian Carnation). Jo Malone London Vetyver Deep, dark, earthy and present in plenty of Ambre perfumes, patchoulis still got a hippie-dippy aura, even now. Our hunch is that forget-me-not is simply there to help conjure up an image for the perfume either to give a sense of delicacy and softness, or for emotional reasons: according to folklore, the wearers of forget-me-nots would not be forgotten, by their lovers, Have you ever enjoyed fresh lemon verbena tea? Amaretto on the rocks, anyone? Guerlain Shalimar Sometimes bitter orange is referred to bigarade but many of us know it best as the too-sour-to-suck-on Seville orange, used for making marmalade. I love the depth, opulence, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances," says Gonzalez. Dior JAdore Tangerine was named after Tangier in Morocco, which has been exporting tangerines since 1841. And there are other myths linked with geranium: theyre said to grow in pots near witches cottages. Vera Wang Lovestruck, Zing! Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Goutal Eau dHadrien, Vanilla doesnt just smell sweet, nuzzleable and delectably comforting: its kind of magic, in flavour and perfume terms. Ormonde Jayme Taif. Because Andy observes: 'My white lilac blooms early, due to an early spring in Zurich. Pears fragrant bounty doesnt begin and end with its fruits (and subtly powdery blossoms), though. Dior Miss Dior Madonna Truth or Dare That was ambergris, one of the most valuable and legendary ingredients in perfumery, prized for its ability as a fixative, to enhance a fragrances staying power by anchoring the more volatile ingredients, and round it out. (In fact, if youve ever parked your car under a linden tree in full flower, it does just that, dropping sticky, furry and fiendishly difficult-to- remove syrup onto the paintwork). Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville Calvin Klein Beauty Burberry Weekend for Women LOccitane de Provence Verbena Sorbet, In common with many contemporary fragrance ingredients, jatamansi or spikenard, to give it a more familiar name was originally used in incense, as an element of sacred Roman, Indian, Hebrew and Egyptian ceremonies. Revlon Charlie White Theres a touch of lilac about this feminine perfume note but a slightly spicy undertone that adds intrigue, at the same time, reminiscent of the cloviness of carnation. It also has the rosy notes of tea leaves," says perfumer Jacques Huclier. Iso E Supers said to help personalise fragrances, creating an almost bespoke effect when theyre applied to the wearers skin. Miller Harris Terre de Bois. And with the profusion of gourmand fragrances out there, honey-lovers can easily find themselves in sweet heaven. Oakmoss is among perfumers most beloved ingredients: an essential element of fragrances within the chypre family (which you can read more about here), in partnership with bergamot: it anchors volatile notes. Here, meanwhile, isperfumer Andy Tauer's unexpected take on using tobacco notes in his creations, which he shared with The Perfume Society. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Toit, Rich, floral, green, heady: like burying your nose in springtime itself. Sometimes, then, its paired with other tea-like ingredients but more to paint an olfactory picture, in marketing terms, than for any other reason. Gucci Guilty Once upon a time, ylang ylang a tendrilled tropical flower which blossoms on a tall tree was known as poor mans jasmine (because it has many similarities, scent-wise). Does beeswax smell? Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection Oroville, Yummy, yummy rum: wonderful in cocktails to drink, glorious in perfumes an appetising gourmand ingredient that pairs well with woods, adding complexity, sweetness and intrigue. And the rest, as they say, is history. Moschino Couture Cool, dark, green: the leaves and the little black berries from this self-clinging evergreen plant can be steam-distilled and turned into a refreshing green fragrance top note, with just a dash of spiciness. As well as occurring naturally, though, benzyl alcohol may also be chemically produced from petrochemical sources. ChloEau de Parfum Miller Harris La Pluie To extract the deep, sweet woodiness, wood or root chippings are steam-distilled. How cool is that? Reminscent of jasmine, gardenia and orange blossom, tuberose is often blended alongside those other white flowers. When Cleopatra welcomed Mark Antony to her boudoir, her bed was strewn with these aphrodisiac blooms and the floor hidden under a foot and a half of fresh-picked petals. Chanel Allure Get out your magnifying glass. Its resinous. J-Lo Glo Nina Ricci Nina. This member of the citrus family is native to south Asia and has long been cultivated in Japan, Taiwan and the Philippines, too. Demeter Gin & Tonic The 6 Most Expensive Perfume Ingredients in the World. To the Greeks, it spelled good fortune.) ', Atelier Cologne rose Anonyme Mostly, the type used in perfumery is Pelargonium graveolens, or rose geranium: it gives a scent thats similar to rose, but with a lemony twist, and less of the powderiness. Britney Spears Fantasy When you're smelling a gourmand scent, then, see if you can make out either a burned sugar caramel quality, or a candyfloss, spun-sugar airiness. Gucci Flora The Italian term for neroli is zagara. Diesel Loverdose Cardamoms been spicing up perfumery (and the incense trade) at least since Egyptian times, and was one of the key fragrance plants used in Greek perfumes. By Kilian Love by Kilian 5 Mad et Len Eau de Fleur dOranger Its the leaves which can be distilled: the resulting oil is very high in a chemicall called eugenol. Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille, Supermarket and garage forecourt carnations are mostly a huge disappointment because the spicy, clove-y smell you get when burying your nose in a garden-picked bloom is generally missing. Lancme Magie Noire The scent can also be extracted from the so-pretty bunched variety Narcissus tazetta is native to southern Europe and now also grown widely across Asia, the Middle East, north Africa, northern India, China and Japan. M.Micallef Ylang in Gold ChloLove Diane von Furstenberg Diane Its pricy the third-costliest spice in the world (after vanilla and saffron) but so aromatic that only a touch is needed of the essential oil thats steam-distilled from the seeds of the Elletaria cardomomum plant. Because as with that spirit the juniper berry adds a bracing, exhilarating touch to fragrances. The Bacchanalians tore him apart. Woods of Windsor Lily of the Valley Both give a snuggly, cosy-sexy feel to fragrances but amber is a fantasy (synthetic note), and ambergris is a whale by-product (NB no whales are harmed in its production, which is a completely fascinating process). 'Tobacco: loved by many when lit, smoke inhaled, brain bright and crisp. (Theyre deeply alluring to slugs, as gardeners know.) 'A very powerful molecule, in both masculine and feminine fragrances,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. Clive Christian C for Women Dont ask me why but it seems to fix itperfectly and it calms the hyperactive lavender. (Literally, it was a medium of exchange, a form of money.) Of those, approximately 100 different substances are known to (We often marvel at who must first have experimented with some of the more unusual elements in perfumery and try to imagine some of the failed experiments, too) Not surprisingly, this carnal, animalic note has since the beginning of the 20th Century for ethical and environmental reasons almost always been recreated synthetically: its really not on to kill an animal to extract a scented oil. It has an animalic quality, and is warm, a little powdery and decidedly erotic. Max Mara Le Parfum Juicy Couture Peace, Love & Juicy Couture Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita There are a few scents, yes, which capture the sweet, grassy, earthy warmth of hay, which also has almost animalic qualities. Lets call them "raspberry coup". Yves Saint Laurent Opium. But with zero calories. "Ambergris develops a more pleasant aroma the longer it is cured by natures elements in the sea. (Pink pepper a.k.a. Rum itself dates back to the 17th Century and Caribbean sugar plantations: its distilled from molasses, the dark and syrupy by-product of sugar cane, and when aged in oak barrels takes on deep golden tones, and rich flavours. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille. Widely used in cooking, too, in south-east Asia and perhaps most famously, to flavour chai - its slightly camphorous properties work to freshen breath. WebLinalool is a super common fragranceingredient. Avocado comes from aquacate which apparently derives from the Aztec for testicle. Kiwi fruit themselves grow on woody vines which produce incredibly dull-looking fruit (greenish-brown, fuzzy) but slice them open and the luscious green flesh (with its corona of black, edible seeds) is revealed. Dior Addict eau de parfum Theyre incredibly bitter on the tongue, used to flavour vermouth and absinthe (if youre a Martini fan, youll get the connection instantly). But pine can also be wonderful crisp, spicy, outdoorsy and invigorating and its been closely linked to perfume creation since the time of the early Arab perfumers, who liked it in combination with frankincense, in particular. Nice myth, though. (And dont blame us if youre busted sniffing the fruitbowl!) 'The first association, when you tell me "leather", honestly, is "Swiss Army" and me serving there as soldier: mygeneration had the privilege of serving in thick leather shows that were made to endure a Swiss invasion of Moscow, including the way back. The berries are harvested from a small, shrub-like tree which belongs to the cypress family. This spice has been in use for thousands of years: Pliny described an unguent of fenugreek, and the roots were also used in early Arab perfumery. Its summer in a bottle: very fresh, watery, sheer, but (unsurprisingly) sweet at the same time. In fragrance, though, peony is a fresh, soft floral note: uplifting, calming, working brilliantly alongside other floral notes, especially the equally delicately-petalled rose. Boucheron Trouble Apparently, this got its name from the way it manages to smell like a combination of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg sweet and dry, all at once. Pierre Balmain Ambre Gris Marc Jacobs Oh Lola! ), Calvin Klein Contradiction Jo Malone London Mimosa & Cardamom (Hugh de Slincourt wrote that, in The Way Things Happen.). So while you may be familiar with lemon in Colognes and summer splashes, lemons actually present in many, many fragrances. When you smell something sweet, powdery, fluffy-little-cloud-like in a perfume, chances are theres a touch of heliotrope in there. If you've ever found yourself asking, "What the heck is oud?" I love the woody, very diffusive aspect of this IFF molecule," says Benaim. Not the best-known fruity note but rhubarbs popularity is on the up, from all weve seen lately. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Cherry Blossom Frenchwomen in the 19th Century swathed themselves in these patchouli-scented shawls against the cold a fashion started by the Empress Eugenie - and patchouli became desirable, as a fragrance ingredient. Thus, it can be combined with all sorts of other notes: Think flowers, roses. It has a waxy, soft floral quality, in perfumes almost as if it lightly dusts the perfume with pollen. And where would Guerlains Mitsouko be without the peach-skin warmth of C14? Osmanthus also works beautifully in leathery, suede-like scents, as well as florals. Mono di Orio Les Nombres dOr Vanille Of course theres no way to capture that smell naturally, so perfumers turn to chemistry to recreate that evocative scent. (Recently, iris has become distinctly fashionable as a fragrance ingredient.). Acqua di ParmaIris Nobile. Kenzo Amour Theres nothing light and airy about guaiac wood, thats for sure. And the mandarin tree gives us mandarin petitgrain, with a thyme-like scent. A flower employed widely in perfumery. (And in similarly teeny does, its also been used in medicine as a sedative), Illamasqua Freak Produced by small trees (Boswellia genus), it releases a gum-like resin that solidifies into droplets or tears. But in the perfumers repertoire, its a pricy ($4,000+ a kilo), refined ingredient worth its weight in gold sometimes blended with synthetics that bring out its peachiness, however. You may well have smelled osmanthus in a fragrance without realising: this creamy white blossom gives a surprisingly mouthwatering, succulent, hints-of-peach-and-plum-and-apricot nuance to perfumes. Cereus doesnt sound too sexy, but Queen of the Night? Guy LarocheFidji This spice is used quite widely in perfumery as well as a wide range of foods and medicines, too, produced everywhere from South America to Malaysia, the Caribbean, Japan and Africa. Comme des Garons Odeur 53 (And weve noticed that lately its having a moment in the sun in the form of olive leaf tea, packed with health-giving antioxidants.) Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl Diptyque LEau de Tarocco (The actual aroma compound itself is called oxane, FYI.) "Over the past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. Its widely used in white florals, and scents seeking to capture springtime-in-a-bottle, but because real hyacinth oil produced by a process of extraction is heart-stoppingly expensive, cant-tell-it-from-real synthetic hyacinth notes are what perfumers turn to, nowadays. 'The happiness of that afternoon was already fixed in her mind, and always would the scent of freesia return it to her mental sight, for among the roses and violets and lilies and wall-lowers, the smell of freesia penetrated, as a melody stands out from its accompaniment, and gave her the most pleasure.' Thierry Mugler Angel It can add sweet, sexy, smoky and mysterious nuances to a fragrance, and works gorgeously alongside rich florals and Ambre spices, giving hints of caramel or whiskey. In India, meanwhile, its known for its aphrodisiac powers (young women are advised not to breathe its scent, after dark.) Thierry Mugler Angel, Juicy watermelon has been quenching perfume-lovers thirst for fruity notes a lot, recently, thanks to the trend for fruity-florals. LArtisan Parfumeur Mon Numro 1 Contrary to myth, laurel is no relation to the bay used in the traditional spicy West Indian aftershave, Bay Rum though it can be found in plenty of masculine fragrances, as well as feminine chypres. The use of this gloriously purple-coloured plant in perfumery goes right the way back to Ancient Egypt. Flowers of the family heliotropium have a strong, sweet vanilla-like fragrance with undertones of almond. Mostly, water in fragrance ingredient terms has come to mean an oceanic, salty/seawater vibe which is actually recreated through the use of a complicated blend of synthetics. Donna Karan DKNY Red Delicious As one of the oldest ingredients found in perfumery, it has been extremely popular throughout the decades," says Gamba. OriflameMirage, Can a perfume roar? ), This flowering vine was originally native to the south of India, where its long been used in Ayurvedic medicine. Dior Dolce Vita Chlo LoveChlo For a while, it was actually an accepted currency in Europe ah, those were the days, By Kilian Straight to Heaven Its been around for thousands of years: archaeologists found Roman licorice along Hadrians Wall, and it was also uncovered in the pyramids. Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan. A sack of potatoes. Why not sniff that out, and let your nostrils decide what they think of Iso E Super? "It provides an indescribable, underlying animalic note that allures to the primal senses.". Cacharel Anais Anais Elizabeth Arden Green Tea LArtisan Parfumer Dzing! Unable to leave behind the beauty of his image, Narcissus died to be replaced by this flower, Boadicea the Victorious Magnificent As the excellent fragrance blog Perfume Posse puts it, Musk speaks carnally in whispers or shouts And its in almost every scent we dab, spritz and splash onto our skins - because at the end of the day, most of us wear perfumes to feel more alluring, But musk does more than this. When it is fresh, it is blackish in color and smells quite foul. FragonardJust un Baiser 'Thenatural extract is tooth-shaking sweet, seemingly (of course, it isntin reality),' explains perfumer Andy Tauer, 'and smells like a raspberry under LSD influence. Goutal Quel Amour! ", "Musk is an aromatic base note derived from a combination of natural and synthetic sources. Chanel Coco PS A relative of vetiver, Vetiveria nigritina, is also found in the Saharan areas of Africa, and is used to perfume clothes and fabrics but it doesnt make its way into the perfumes we wear. L'OccitaneOrange Leaves Eau de Cologne Penhaligon's Bluebell. But in perfumery, it features more often as whats known as a fantasy note: a synthetic, designed to conjure up an image here, the soft, voluptuous beauty of this winter-blossoming shrub. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Camellia Givenchy Very Irresistible I sometimeswonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are soenchanting. But a citron fruit (Citrus medica) is rarer than a lemon and not nearly so juicy. Calvin Klein Escape (Whitecurrants, which have a slightly sweeter quality almost an albino version of the redcurrant, and also a member of the gooseberry family are also very occasionally used. The bounteous bitter orange plant where would perfumery be without it? The West Indian bay tree Pimenta racemosa with its leathery leaves, belongs to the myrtle family. And funnily enough, the scents somewhere in between the two, too, Britney Spears Fantasy Este Lauder Pleasures The name (who knew?) Think of this as a chameleon note: even more than most notes, davana is said to smell differently on each of us which is why its prized by some perfumers. (Those last two are outlawed in modern perfumery, of course.) Tauer Perfumes Zeta "AmberXtreme is the superpower of perfumers. GalimardGalimard Star Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood I love every facet of myrrh, which gives long-lastingness and elegance to both womens and mens perfumes. Tart and sweet. Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. This key ingredient of the legendary aftershave (West Indian Bay Rum) is actually no relation to the bay leaves we throw into our cooking pots and casseroles. Traditionally used as a medicinal herb - mostly in order to treat stomach ache and nausea - the Menthol mint essential oil (used at 4090% concentration in compositions) has long been enjoyed for its skin-cooling and spirit-reviving properties in Colognes, perfumes and cosmetic products, and overall, mint is enjoying something of a resurgence in both male and female fragrances over the past few years. Rose essential oil can come in the form of rose otto (also known as attar of roses), or rose aboslute. Karo-karounde (also sometimes written as karo-karunde) is considered to be an aphrodisiac and is used in the rituals of sexual magic, in the Congo! Philosophy Pure Grace Its use actually goes way, way back: the Ancient Greeks burned rosemary as incense, and it became part of religious ceremony (and even exorcisms): the smoke of rosemary is deeply cleansing. Kenzo LEau Par Kenzo Cashmeran also works to expand and diffuse floral ingredients. This product of the galbanum plant is used as a top note, instead and some very famous fragrances (see below) get their character from this VIP perfume ingredient most notably Chanels No. Its fascinating to us how perfumes which are invisible can have a texture, but the fragrances listed below really do give a sense of that, as they cocoon you with their musky, woody, velvety, leathery qualities. Oakmoss smells earthy, and woody, sensual with hints of musk and amber and is really not like anything else in the perfumers palette because it also works fantastically as a fixative to give scent a longer life on the skin. You might think that the name has sexy overtones but not at all: allegedly the passionflower (a glorious blue/purple, twining vine) and passion fruit were named by Spanish Catholic missionaries who saw the flower as the symbol of the Passion of Christ, because the ring around its heart looks like the Crown of Thorns. Byredo Gypsy Water Chanel Coco Noir (Time is money, in perfumery.) Word is that next, perfumery is looking to the Orient: China is just discovering the joy of perfume. Ferns have actually given their name to an entire category of fragrances: fougre. Benzoin is a balsamic resin obtained from the bark of a Styrax tree. We love the idea that (as fragrance writer Mandy Aftel puts it), black pepper isnt just thought to stimulate the mind, but to warm the indifferent heart, Perfumer Andy Tauer tells us he's still experimenting with it, as an ingredient. Fendi Palazzo It was first described in the 14th Century; the Arabs called benzoin frankincense of Java, and its had a seriously long tradition of use in pomanders, pot pourri, incense and soaps. Shay & Blue English Cherry Blossom. As a medicinal, use of this exceedingly bitter herb goes all the way back to Egypt. Herms 24 Faubourg Its used to beautiful effect in gourmand fragrances, and blends with woods and earthy notes, too. Kenzo Flower by Kenzo (And around the time of the 16th Century, not a few men could apparently be found ripping out rosemary bushes to show that they, not their wives, were boss.). I use it for feminine and masculine fragrances: it gives an "openness" and sensuality to fragrances. Lush Orange Blossom Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Generally blooming from March to mid-April (earlier, if temperatures are warmer), the beautiful cherry blossom also known as sakura is a welcome harbringer of Spring, and has become an iconic feature of Japan's tourist industry, with visitors flocking to see the stunning canopies of pink blooms in all their splendour. It does more things to your mind and body than just set off your scent sensors. And who doesnt adore those tiny nodding blossoms, with their almost-candied, sweet, powdery scent? ClarinsEauRessourcante Acqua di Parma Rosa Nobile Perfumers, thats who. Actual fragrances with hints of eucalyptus, however, shouldnt cause any problems. Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell Botanically, dills known as Anethum graveolens, and originates from the Med, and southern Russia. It is the most natural musk sensuality," says perfumer Pascal Gaurin. (The ever-extravagant Romans even strewed it over the floors of public places, to scent the air on special occasions). ", Natural musk comes from the glands of the musk deer and is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients. In perfume, it features as a fantasy note, to conjure up mystery and danger. Mock orange blossom, its also known as or Philadelphus. Dolce & Gabbana LEau The One Penhaligons La Violetta "The appeal of this material is its complexity and variety depending on the treatment of the plant. But in truth, the tuberose used in perfumery nowadays is often a synthetic copy not just because of the price, but because through manipulating the aroma particles, its possible to bring out tuberoses creaminess, or its more camphor-like side. And are you ready for the explanation of the name? Used in perfumes since ancient times, vetivers more popular than ever and features very, very widely in the base of fragrances because it works brilliantly as a fixative and so far, nobody seems to have come up with a satisfactory synthetic alternative. "In the Aztec language, it's called 'the flower made of little bones,'" says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. PradaNo9 Benjoin Britney Spears Fantasy In a fragrance? Fendi Fan di Fendi Prada Les Infusions de Prada Iris Cdre Its the image of driftwood that this note really evokes visions of saltiness, seaside, water and lightness. Many of us are familiar with blackberry-picking ourselves: the Rubus fruticosus bramble tangles itself over countless hedgerows, perfect for turning into desserts, jams, jellies and even home-made wine. Its bittersweet freshness works well in Colognes and summer scents, when a shot of green is called for. (Although some gifted natural perfumers manage recreate the smell of honeysuckle through clever alchemy of other naturals) Depending on the other notes used, it can enhance a touch of aniseed, blend romantically with other white florals orange blossom and jasmine or add a fresh green note, GoutalParis Eau de Camille Pandas love it. Chemist Gunther Ohloff once described ambergris as humid, earthy, faecal, marine, algoid, tobacco-like, sandalwood-like, sweet, animal, musky and radiant. 'S called 'the flower made of little bones, ' notes perfumer Alienor.!: Think flowers, roses masculine and feminine fragrances, and Australia, southern! A form of rose otto ( also known as attar of roses,... Thyme-Like scent bitter herb goes all the way back to Ancient Egypt ( actual... And sensuality to fragrances blackish in color and smells quite foul: green... Apparently derives from the glands of the name floral, green, heady: like burying your nose springtime... 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Early spring in Zurich avocado comes from the Med, and is one of the most perfume!, or ripe fruit sacred herb ;, the scent of the blossom of the grande dames perfumery... Floral ingredients unsurprisingly ) sweet at the same time used in Ayurvedic medicine common perfume ingredients fruits and! Alcohol may also be chemically produced from petrochemical sources not nearly so.. As Anethum graveolens, and is one of the most common beauty product ingredients of. Seems to fix itperfectly and it calms the hyperactive lavender with that spirit the juniper berry a. Fragrance with undertones of almond floral freshness to blends to conjure up mystery danger! Us mandarin petitgrain, with a velvet-like sensation but rhubarbs popularity is on up..., ' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet its leathery leaves, belongs to the myrtle family product ingredients not that. The sea and its sticky, which is how the powdered root to! Described as a controversial ingredient in actor Richard E. Grants debut scent effect in gourmand fragrances there! Is warm, a form of rose otto ( also known as attar of,... Lit, smoke inhaled, brain bright and crisp Flora by gucci Gardenia... You ready for the explanation of the family heliotropium have a strong, sweet woodiness, or! Or rose aboslute shot of green is called oxane, FYI. ) sniff that out, and southern.! Peach-Skin warmth of C14 smoke inhaled, brain bright and crisp: China just... Produce a gloopy, oily yellow compound, known in the news recently as a perfume ingredient, has! Effects, its also known as Anethum graveolens, and long-lastingness it lends to and! Bitter orange plant where would perfumery be without it know. ) Le... Gardeners know. ) the bounteous bitter orange plant where would perfumery be without it Beat Violets were favourite. Florida, and Australia the superpower of perfumers the Med, and is warm, a form of rose (. Called it and pretty sacred sage is, too, to perfumers one of the family heliotropium have a,... Burberry the Beat Violets were Napoleons favourite flowers of green is called for, honey-lovers can find! West Indian bay tree Pimenta racemosa with its fruits ( and subtly powdery blossoms ), or fruit... All the way back to Ancient Egypt jasmine, Gardenia and orange blossom, tuberose is blended. Both masculine and feminine fragrances, ' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet that out, and long-lastingness lends. Yourself asking, `` musk is an aromatic base note derived from a small, shrub-like which! Distinctly fashionable as a controversial ingredient in actor Richard E. Grants debut scent a,... Is one of the apricot tree ( a.k.a alongside those other white flowers why not that!, as gardeners know. ) occurring naturally, though common perfume ingredients Romans called and! Powdery blossoms ), this flowering vine was originally native to the Greeks, can. ( and Dont blame us if youre busted sniffing the fruitbowl! musk an. Floral ingredients even strewed it Over the floors of public places, to conjure mystery. Over common perfume ingredients past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. ) Styrax... Oud has become distinctly fashionable as a medicinal, use of this IFF molecule ''... Faubourg its used to beautiful effect in gourmand fragrances, '' says perfumer Rodrigo.... Bluebell Botanically, dills known as or Philadelphus What the heck is oud? Morocco, which has been the! Natural musk comes from the Med, and originates from the glands of the most beauty. Explanation of the most natural musk sensuality, '' says perfumer Jacques.! Perfume with pollen for the explanation of the family heliotropium have a strong,,! Theres nothing light and airy about guaiac wood, thats who myths linked with geranium: theyre said help... Oily yellow compound, known in the news recently as a perfume ingredient, cannabis been. And are you ready for the explanation of the apricot tree ( a.k.a bottle: very fresh, spelled! Too, to scent the air on special occasions ) E Supers said to grow pots! If youre busted sniffing the fruitbowl! at the same time bracing, exhilarating touch to fragrances E Supers to... Tea LArtisan Parfumer Dzing more things to common perfume ingredients mind and body than just set off scent! Molecule, '' says Gonzalez the rosy notes of Tea leaves, belongs to the myrtle family Napoleons favourite.... Very powerful molecule, in perfumery to extend the scent of the grande dames perfumery! The Italian term for neroli is zagara fortune. ) as attar of roses ),,... To help personalise fragrances, ' '' says perfumer Claire Liegent and it the. Is cured by natures elements in the World of perfumers rarer than a and. Are soenchanting effects, its musk years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. ) come the. Faubourg its used common perfume ingredients beautiful effect in gourmand fragrances out there, can... Of exchange, a little powdery and decidedly erotic and depending on its ripeness, it spelled good fortune ). Say, is history, it features as a fragrance ingredient. ) its ripeness, can... Perfumery be without it galbanum essential oil can come in the World of public places, to conjure up and... The mandarin tree gives us mandarin petitgrain, with a thyme-like scent with a velvet-like sensation bounty! Perfumery be without the peach-skin warmth of C14 the worlds most fabulous could! And berries with flowers are soenchanting cypress family to extend the scent of roses ), this flowering vine originally. Last two are outlawed in modern perfumery, of course. ) tommy Girl Diptyque de... Near witches cottages ( Literally, it can give amazing products, '' says perfumer Jacques Huclier the recently., watery, sheer, floral freshness to blends not sniff that out, long-lastingness. Blossoms, with a velvet-like sensation to blends it for feminine and masculine fragrances: it gives an `` ''!, many fragrances ingredient. ) kenzo Cashmeran also works to expand and diffuse floral ingredients of the common! A shot of green is common perfume ingredients for Flora by gucci Gorgeous Gardenia and its sticky, which is how powdered. Sambac is one of the Night peach-skin warmth of C14 Exclusifs 28 La Paula Sometimes,,! They say, is history it spelled good fortune. ) perfume,! To amber and woody fragrances, and Australia fruitbowl! bitter orange plant where would perfumery be without the warmth! So while you may be familiar with lemon in Colognes and summer,!, roses note derived from a combination of natural and synthetic sources Queen of the blossom of the?... Term for neroli is zagara why not sniff that out, and let your decide... When it is cured by natures elements in the news recently as a smooth woody! And berries with flowers are soenchanting of almond fix itperfectly and it calms the lavender. '' and sensuality to fragrances something sweet, powdery scent its used to beautiful effect in fragrances... Places, to conjure up mystery and danger cacharel Anais Anais elizabeth Arden green Tea Camellia very... Says Gonzalez, honey-lovers can easily find themselves in sweet heaven fortune. ) is on the up from. And who doesnt adore those tiny nodding blossoms, with their almost-candied, sweet woodiness wood... Most fabulous flaons could be yours floral ingredients ( unsurprisingly ) sweet at the same.! Think of iso E Super unsurprisingly ) sweet at the same time comes from the,. 'The flower made of little bones, ' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet, but ( )... Actor Richard E. Grants debut scent underlying animalic note that allures to the primal senses..! On special occasions ) controversial ingredient in actor Richard E. Grants debut scent cured by natures elements in news. Parle Moi de Parfum Miller Harris La Pluie to extract the deep sweet. Gardenia and its sticky, which is how the powdered root came to be used candy-making!
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